Things to do in Shigu on the ancient Tea Horse Road

Shigu(石鼓) is an ancient village on the Yangtze River’s riverbank. In this article, I explain what to do and how to get to this beautiful place near Lijiang.

Of all the places I visited in Yunnan, the ancient village of Shigu (石鼓) is one of the most surprising. Located just about two hours from Lijiang, one of the most touristic places in China, it’s still relatively undiscovered, and it feels refreshingly authentic. Get there before everybody else discovers it!

Because of its position, Shigu became a strategic and commercial crossing point. Armies and traders used it: Zhuge Liang in ancient times, Kublai Khan in the 13th century, and in 1936, the Red Army during the Long March crossed there.

How to get to Shigu, and when is the best time

To reach Shigu from Lijiang, you have several options:

• By Bus: from Lijiang Passenger Station (丽江客运站). Buses depart approximately every hour from 7:30 AM to 4:00 PM, and it takes about 1.5 to 2 hours.
• By Minivan: from Jinkai Plaza (金凯广场) in Lijiang. The fare is around ¥30 per person, and the drive typically takes about 40 minutes.
• By Car: you can rent a car or a private driver. Send me a DM on Instagram if you need one.

The best time to visit is spring, around March, when the village and the Yangtze River are framed by blooming pear trees, cherry blossoms, and rapeseed fields: a unique spectacle. Additionally, spring usually brings good weather. The rainy season, from May to September, also has its charm because the river will be in full flow.

Things to do in Shigu

This village is famous for two main reasons: it sits on the banks of the Yangtze River, the third-longest river in the world, and the longest to flow entirely within one country. But what truly makes Shigu special is its location at the First Bend of the Yangtze River, known in Chinese as Changjiang Diyi Wan (长江第一湾).

Here, the river makes a dramatic U-turn, first flowing northward before curving sharply to the northeast, creating a bend of almost 140 degrees. If you visit during the right season, you’ll find flowers blooming everywhere, which makes this area even more spectacular.

The second reason this ancient town is famous is that it was part of the Tea Horse Road. Also known as the Southern Silk Road (in Chinese: 茶马古道 – ChaMaGuDao), it was a trade link between Bengal (now Bangladesh and India) and southern China.

In addition to tea, the mule caravans carried salt. Both people and horses carried heavy loads, and the tea porters sometimes carried over 60–90 kg, often more than their body weight in tea. If this part of Chinese history interests you, you should also visit Shaxi (沙溪). Here you can find more info. According to some researchers, thanks to this ancient trade route, Tea was first introduced in China.

The village’s name comes from a drum-shaped stone tablet carved with white marble. Two characters form the name 石鼓: 石 means stone, and 鼓 means drum.

Built during the Jiaqing era (1548-1561) of the Ming Dynasty, the stone drum is a monument commemorating the victory of Lijiang’s Naxi ruler over an invading Tibetan army. It is 1.5 meters in diameter and 0.5 meters thick. The stone drum has an obvious vestige of what appears to be a “rip” in it. It is said that the stone drum would rupture before any war and then fold when peace returned.

I also recommend spending some time exploring the village because it’s still quite well-preserved and offers many opportunities to capture views of rural life among the Naxi people, who are natives of this region.

Final Thoughts: the Longpan Dam, a Threat to Shigu’s Landscape

Despite its serene beauty, Shigu faces a significant threat: the proposed Longpan Dam. This massive hydropower project, part of a series of dams planned along the Jinsha River, threatens to submerge much of the First Bend area, including Shigu Town, permanently altering this iconic landscape. The dam would create a massive reservoir that could submerge Shigu’s fertile fields and historical sites, including the Ming-era drum-shaped stone tablet and the Qing-era Tiehong Bridge.

Local communities, predominantly from the Naxi minority, have expressed strong resistance, fearing the loss of their homes, culture, and livelihoods. The government has issued orders banning new construction, raising concerns about possible forced relocations and inadequate compensation. The same project was suspended in 2007 amid widespread protests, but it has since reemerged as part of efforts to meet climate goals and reduce dependence on coal.

This uncertainty has left Shigu in a state of suspended time, where daily life continues against the backdrop of an unresolved future. For now, the town remains open to visitors, but its long-term fate is tied to decisions being made far beyond the quiet bends of the Jinsha River.

As always, don’t forget to get a VPN before traveling to China. I recommend this one. If you prefer an eSIM, this is a great option. Finally, don’t forget to get a good travel insurance such as this one. Here you can find some more pictures I took during the trip.

You can find other posts about China here, and here are some more pictures. Here is my guide to visiting Jade Dragon Snow Mountain from Lijiang. Don’t miss my Yunnan travel guide.