Xinjiang Travel Guide: What to see in the Far West of China

Xinjiang is often called the Far West of China. Read my travel guide to learn more about how to plan a trip to this vast Autonomous Region.

One of the main complaints I receive from foreigners who travel to China for the first time is how pretty much all the famous places have become over-touristy. The issue it’s not simply the amount of people, but the way the scenic area are developed: entrance fee, electric mini buses that look like trains, tour guides with loud speakers, hordes of ayis (Chinese aunties) with red dresses and hats shouting loud and the constant music that breaks the immersion from the experience are quite a cultural shock for everyone who is not Chinese.

This is why people who have some experience travelling in China opt for a road trip. Surely you’ll occasionally come across the same scenes, but if you have a car, you can at least leave the place soon enough and move on to the more hidden gems.

I wrote a detailed guide explaining what to see on a road trip across Qinghai, from Yushu (in Qinghai) to Chengdu, and a travel guide to Western Sichuan. All these areas are located on the Tibetan Plateau, which is my favourite place in China: rich in culture, wildlife, and incredible landscapes.

But another great place in China for a road trip is further north, in Xinjiang and Gansu. In this article, I shared some ideas for what to see in Gansu along the ancient Silk Road, and if you have time, you can actually combine the two places.

In this guide, I’ll focus on Xinjiang, one of the country’s best-kept secrets for foreigners. This region will reward you in ways few other places can.

Yes, it’s a long way to come from pretty much anywhere else in China. It’s also more challenging than other regions, and you’ll pass through several police checkpoints every day, but you’ll be rewarded with some of the most authentic places in the whole country.

The other good thing is that, unlike Tibet (here’s my guide), you don’t need a special permit, and if you want to, you can drive by yourself.

So why aren’t more foreigners coming here? Partly because of the distance, partly because of the heavy security presence, and partly because Xinjiang still carries a certain mystery that keeps many travellers away. For me, that’s precisely why it’s worth going. Once you decide to visit, you can take advantage of my tested Xinjiang itinerary and experience this remarkable part of China for yourself.

Best Time to Visit Xinjiang

Xinjiang is so vast that there isn’t a single “perfect” season. The landscapes stretch from desert basins to snow-capped peaks; the best time depends on what you want to experience.

• Spring, from April to June, is generally good. The weather is still mild in most places, apricot and peach blossoms cover valleys around Turpan and Ili, and the heat of the desert hasn’t arrived yet. Some mountain passes can still be closed by snow, but this is a comfortable window for cities and lower altitudes.
• From July to August, summer is the most popular season, especially in the north. The grasslands around Ili, Kanas, and Nalati are at their greenest, and festivals bring yurts, horse games, and music. In the south, though, expect extreme heat. Turpan can reach over 40°C, and some days the hottest places can reach nearly 50°C.
• Autumn, from September to early October, is probably the most photogenic. Vineyards heavy with grapes, golden poplar forests, and crisp skies make this a great time. The temperatures are generally good across the region. It is also the season when Kanas and the Altai mountains glow with yellow larch trees, but those areas are extremely expensive during the Fall.
• Winter, from November to March, is very quiet. Many scenic areas close or cut back services, and temperatures in the north drop well below freezing. Still, if you are after snow scenes or want to see places without any crowds, it can be rewarding. I once visited the Hemu Village in January at –25°C, and while it was tough, the snow-covered wooden houses and frozen rivers made it unforgettable. This is also a good time to ski in the Altai area.

In short, the best times are Autumn and Spring, but each season has something to offer; after all, Xinjiang is a vast region, three times the size of France.

Picking Your Itinerary in Xinjiang

One of the first things you need to understand about Xinjiang is how big the region is. It covers more than 1.6 million square kilometres and is roughly one-sixth of China’s total land area. To put that into perspective, Xinjiang is larger than countries like Iran or Mongolia. Distances here are enormous; even the fastest roads can feel endless when you cover hundreds of kilometres in a single day.

This is why choosing your itinerary carefully is so important. Depending on how many days you have and how many places you want to include, your experience will be completely different. If you only have a few days, it makes sense to focus on a single area, because travelling between cities can easily take eight or more hours by car. But if you want to understand the region, you must set aside enough time and be prepared for long stretches on the road.

In this guide, I’ll focus on what I consider a classic first-time itinerary. It combines the region’s cultural and natural highlights, starting in Kashgar and the Pamir Highway in the far west and ending in Urumqi and Turpan in the north. With a private driver, this journey takes about twelve days, covering everything in between at a reasonable pace without feeling too rushed. It’s still a lot of driving, but it’s the best way to experience Xinjiang’s diversity if this is your first visit.

How to Get to Xinjiang

When planning your trip, the first question is usually where to begin. You can start the itinerary either in Urumqi (乌鲁木齐) or in Kashgar (喀什), depending on your flights and schedule.

Urumqi, the regional capital, is by far the main gateway. Its Diwopu International Airport (乌鲁木齐地窝堡国际机场) offers frequent connections to most major Chinese cities, including Beijing, Shanghai, and Chengdu, as well as a few international routes to Central Asia. If you are coming from abroad, you’ll likely need to connect through one of these hubs first. Urumqi is also a key railway junction, with high-speed trains reaching Lanzhou, Xining, and Xi’an, though the distances are so vast that flying is usually the more practical choice. In any case, I recommend booking your flights or train with Trip.

Kashgar, on the other hand, is smaller and has fewer flight options, but it’s a great place to start if your focus is on the western part of Xinjiang. The airport here mainly connects to Urumqi, though in recent years, there have also been limited direct flights from cities like Chengdu or Xi’an. Starting in Kashgar makes sense if you want to explore the Pamirs.

It’s also possible to enter Xinjiang by land. There are border crossings with Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Pakistan, though these routes require careful planning and up-to-date information about current regulations. The Khunjerab Pass connects Pakistan with Kashgar, while the Torugart and Irkeshtam Passes connect Kyrgyzstan with western Xinjiang. From Kazakhstan, the main crossings are at Khorgos and Dostyk, linking directly to the northern part of the region.

The rules for foreign travellers crossing the border on foot can change quickly, so it’s best to double-check with local agencies before planning your trip.

DIY or Guided Tour

A common question is whether it’s better to explore Xinjiang on your own or join a tour. The truth is that travelling here independently can be quite complicated. Public transportation exists, but it’s impractical since many highlights are scattered across remote areas with no reliable bus or train connections. You can technically rent a car if you hold a valid Chinese driver’s license (here’s how to get one), but there are some severe limitations to keep in mind.

One of the biggest challenges is that only people with a Chinese ID card can refuel at petrol stations. This means that even if you drive yourself, you’ll need to rely on a local person every time you stop for gas, which can be pretty inconvenient. On top of that, certain parts of Xinjiang, such as the Pamir Highway near the borders with Tajikistan and Pakistan, require special permits issued by the local Public Security Bureau. These are not too difficult to get, but they add an extra layer of bureaucracy. Finally, you’ll come across dozens of police checkpoints, and if you drive yourself, you’ll have to deal with every single one of them, while if you have a driver, you won’t have to bother. Drivers know the roads, understand how checkpoints work, and are always up to date with the latest restrictions on foreign travellers.

I travelled with a Chinese agency. Feel free to DM me on Instagram if you need the contact.

Best Xinjiang Itinerary: from Kashgar to Urumqi

Here is the link to the map above. Remember that Google Maps isn’t particularly reliable in China, so this map is only meant to give you a quick overview of places to visit.

Kashgar (喀什)

I wrote an extensive travel guide to Kashagar (you can read it here). This remote city is actually geographically closer to Djibouti in Africa than to Shanghai (mind-blowing if you think about it), and I’m telling you this to highlight how big the country really is.

The highlights of the area are the Ancient Town (unfortunately, it has been completely rebuilt) and the Sunday Market. So plan your dates accordingly and try to have a Sunday in the city.

Karakoram Highway (喀喇昆仑公路)

This spectacular road starts in Kashgar and cuts through the mountains that border Tajikistan, Afghanistan, and Pakistan. It’s one of the most breathtaking roads in the world, and you’ll find plenty of places to stop. I wrote an extensive travel guide here. Remember that you need a special permit to enter the area, which you can get in Kashgar. You’ll find all the info in my Karakhorum Travel Guide.

Some highlights of the area include Baisha Lake, Karakul Lake, Muztagh Glacier, and Panlong Ancient Road. But you can easily spend 3 to 4 days and discover off-the-beaten-path places.

Shache (莎车) and Hotan (和田)

After spending some time in the mountains, you’ll have to drive back toward Kashgar, then first to Shache (also known as Yarkant) and then to Hotan (called Hetian in Chinese).

Shache was the historical, political, and cultural heart of the Yarkent Khanate, and it holds deep historical roots and a distinct Uyghur character. This city is one of the birthplaces of Uyghur Muqam, a classical musical and dance form recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage, which is well preserved here.

Hotan is famous for being the source of some of the world’s finest nephrite jade. Historically, it was a major centre for Buddhist learning before Islam became the dominant religion, a legacy that can still be seen in archaeological ruins. To be honest, neither city is that interesting, but they are the gateway to the Taklamakan Desert.

The Taklamakan Desert (塔克拉玛干沙漠)

The Taklamakan Desert is one of the world’s largest shifting sand deserts. Its name is often translated to “go in, and you will not come out,” a fitting description for this harsh, unforgiving landscape. Historically, the Taklamakan was the main obstacle for travellers on the ancient Silk Road. Caravans had to carefully navigate their edges, following two main routes that connected the oasis cities and avoided the treacherous, arid interior. Despite its formidable nature, the desert has proven to be a unique preserver of history; its extreme dryness has safeguarded ancient artifacts and even mummified remains, providing invaluable insights into the early civilisations that once thrived on its fringes.

The highway that crosses the Desert is known as the Tarim Desert Highway (塔里木沙漠公路), and it stretches over 550 kilometres, making it the longest desert highway in a moving-sand desert in the world. The biggest challenge to the highway is the constantly shifting dunes. To prevent the road from being buried, a massive human-made “green corridor” was planted along both sides of the highway. This extensive shelterbelt, planted with drought-resistant vegetation, is maintained by an intricate irrigation system that pumps groundwater from solar-powered wells.

Be ready for many checkpoints, even in the deep desert. This drive will take most of the day, and since there are no service stations, it’s better to bring food and water for the whole trip.

Alaer (阿拉尔)

Alaer is a modern city built on the banks of the Tarim River, and it’s the first settlement after the desert. Unlike the ancient Silk Road oases, Alaer is new, and it was established by the Xinjiang Production and Construction Corps (Bingtuan). There’s nothing to do there besides having a good rest after a very long day driving across the Taklamakan Desert.

Kuqa (库车)

After a few uninteresting cities, Kuqa is a nice surprise. Located on the southern side of the Tianshan mountains, and known historically as the ancient Buddhist kingdom of Qiuci, it was a central hub on the northern route of the Silk Road. It flourished as a centre of trade, art, and particularly, Buddhism.

There is a nice night market and an ancient town. I really enjoyed the city’s traditional vibe, and the food is also really good and authentic. I recommend staying in this hotel if you want to enjoy some Middle Eastern vibes.

Kizil Caves (克孜尔千佛洞)

In Kizil, you will find some of China’s earliest Buddhist grottoes, which contain ancient murals that reveal the artistic and cultural exchange that occurred here over a thousand years ago. Unfortunately, as with the Mogao Caves in Gansu, most of the paintings have been destroyed, and only 6 of the more than 300 caves are open to visitors. On top of that, there are no English-speaking guides, so you won’t really learn that much. Unless you are really interested in exploring them, I’ll probably skip this area.

Subashi Ruins (苏巴什古城)

Visiting the Subashi Ruins gives you a real sense of the scale of the ancient Kuqa Kingdom. This site was once a massive Buddhist monastery and a major centre of learning. What you see today are the desolate, sun-baked remains of what was once a major centre of learning, sometimes described as a university of its time. Located on both banks of the Kuqa River, the site was a key stop on the Silk Road, attracting monks, scholars, and pilgrims from across Asia.

The best part of this area is that you won’t find that many tourists, and you can actually walk around the ruins.

Tianshan Grand Canyon (天山神秘大峡谷)

The Tianshan Grand Canyon is a beautiful valley carved into the mountains, not too far from Kuqa, which is famous for its towering red sandstone walls and winding passages, and showcases the raw power of nature. You can drive right into the canyon and have a coffee in one of the most spectacular (and overpriced) coffee shops in China.

Right across the river, there’s another beautiful area called Red Mountain Stone Forest (红山石林), also famous for the red and yellow rock formations. Unfortunately, at the moment it’s not possible to drive there, but you can watch the sunset from a panoramic viewpoint on the other side of the river. If you have a drone, this is one of the most spectacular rock formations in China (don’t forget to register it before heading to China).

Bosten Lake (博斯腾湖)

On your way to Turpan, you can stop at Bosten Lake, tucked away near Korla, which is truly something special. It’s the biggest freshwater lake in Xinjiang, spreading out over about 1,000 square kilometres, and sitting at just over 1,000 meters above sea level. The contrast between the water and the nearby desert is quite unique. Also, in this case, I recommend avoiding the big tourist centres and just driving around the lake and stopping where there are no people. The southern shore is the most beautiful

Turpan (吐鲁番)

Besides Kashgar, Turpan is another of the most interesting areas in Xinjiang, both culturally and naturally. For this reason, I wrote a detailed travel guide with specific info on the most interesting things to do.

Some of the highlights include Gaochang Ancient Town (高昌古城), Kumtag Desert (库姆塔格沙漠), Jiaohe Ancient Town (交河故城), and the spectacular Huoyun Valley Scenic Area (火云谷), which is somehow similar to the Tianshan Grand Canyon but much bigger in scale and absolutely beautiful.

Urumqi (乌鲁木齐)

Despite being the capital, Urumqi is surprisingly uninteresting. Before this trip, I was planning to write a specific travel guide, but after coming back, I realised that there isn’t really that much to talk about.

The only things to see are the Xinjiang International Grand Bazaar, a brand-new market, and the Xinjiang Regional Museum. This museum houses a vast collection of artifacts, including the famous ancient Tarim mummies, but because there is not much to do in the city, it’s always crowded. If you decide to go, don’t forget to book the tickets in advance.

A typical day trip from Urumqi is to Heavenly Lake (天池), a high-altitude alpine lake that is also a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site and nestled in the Tianshan Mountains.

Is it expensive to visit Xinjiang?

In my experience, Xinjiang is one of the cheapest places in China in terms of cost of living. It has one of the lowest GDP per capita in the country, as reflected in food and rent prices. But it’s a bit more complicated than that. If you are actually visiting as a tourist, chances are you’ll join a tour, and since the distances between destinations can be really long, you’ll end up spending quite a bit.

Most hotels are also quite expensive, at least relative to the quality they offer, and in some areas (such as Hemu village in the Northern Altay region), the lowest price for a three-star homestay during the high season is around 150€ per night. This is quite similar to what happens in other remote areas of China, where the driver’s and fuel costs can make a massive difference at the end of your trip.

If you want to save money, you can get a Chinese Driver’s License (but be careful with the constantly changing local regulations on places that are closed to foreigners or require permits).

Regardless, Xinjiang is not your typical low-cost, backpacker-friendly trip. Still, the vast distances and the option to drive around will allow you to find places without people, even during the high season (outside the main tourist spots).

Final Thoughts

Xinjiang is a vast region with amazing landscapes and intriguing ancient ruins. Don’t expect to visit this Autonomous Region and enjoy ancient and well-preserved traditions, though. I’ll be honest with you: unlike the Tibetan Plateau, you won’t see old people heading to a sacred religious site or religious figures busy reading prayer books. Xinjiang has been secularised; the most traditional things you will enjoy are music shows and street food.

This being said, I think it’s worth visiting, especially if you want to see a different side of China, one that very few foreigners explore. The main issue is the long distances. If your time is limited, you might consider skipping the Taklamakan Desert and focusing on Kashgar, then flying to Turpan.

Ultimately, a trip here is about understanding a place of profound contrasts. You’ll see the modern infrastructure that connects cities, as well as the remains of civilisations that thrived thousands of years ago. You’ll find a unique blend of Central Asian and Chinese cultures in the people, the markets, and the food. It’s a journey that challenges your perceptions and shows you a part of the world where history and a complex political reality coexist. It’s not an easy trip, but it’s unforgettable.

As always, don’t forget to get a VPN before travelling to China. I recommend this one. If you prefer an eSIM, this is a great option. Finally, don’t forget to get a good travel insurance, such as this one. Here are some more pictures I took in Xinjiang.

Don’t miss my guide to another little-known area: Western Yunnan.