Halfway between Lijiang and Dali, Shaxi(沙溪) is a small village almost forgotten by tourists. In this travel guide, you can find some things to do and see in this peaceful old town.
Lijiang Old Town and Dali Old Town are two of the most famous destinations in Yunnan (here is my guide).
An old town along the ancient Tea Horse Road (also known as South Silk Road) that most tourists often forget is Shaxi (沙溪). Unlike Lijiang and Dali, Shaxi retains the charm of the old Chinese towns, and it’s a very peaceful place, a perfect retreat if you are tired of tourist traps.
I’ve often heard about it, but after being there for a few days, I can say it lives up to its reputation. Another good reason to visit Shaxi is that if you visit Dali or Lijiang, you can easily add Shaxi to your itinerary since it’s halfway between these two cities.
How to get to Shaxi
The main reason why Shaxi is not packed with tourists is that it’s relatively difficult to get there. Even though it’s halfway between Dali and Lijiang, there are no trains or flights. You can get there from Kunming, Lijiang, or Dali, but not directly. You must first take a bus to Jianchuan (剑川).
It takes about an hour to get to Jianchuan if you are in Lijiang. Once there you’ll have to change the bus and take one to Shaxi. If there are no buses, don’t worry because, at the bus station, you can find many drivers of Mianbao Che (minivans) who can take you to your destination for a few RMB. Shaxi is about 45 minutes from Jianchuan.
Alternatively, you can hire a taxi driver in Dali or Lijiang to take you to Shaxi, but it will be more expensive. In any case, it’s not too difficult to get to Shaxi, but it’s difficult enough to keep mass tourism away (for now).
Most people living in Shaxi belong to the Bai, Hui, and Yi ethnic groups.
When is the best time to visit Shaxi, and for how long should you stay
Generally, this part of Yunnan is renowned for its mild climate throughout the year. Keep in mind that in winter, it can be relatively cold, and most of the hotels don’t have heaters. The rainy season starts in May and usually lasts until September.
The best months to visit Shaxi are during Autumn and Spring. Shaxi is a very small town and one day is enough to visit it but considering that it takes a while to get there, I suggest you spend a night in the old town.
Friday is the market day, and many people from the nearby villages flock to the market to sell spices, cheese, local vegetables, and many other things. Many women wear their traditional, beautifully coloured attires.
Things to do in Shaxi
Shaxi is a city of farmers, but since 2000, the local government has started renovating the most important buildings. Although some modern concrete buildings have sprung up, most new homes are built using the style of the Bai minority: wooden structures and mud bricks. There are plenty of trees along the main streets of the city that help to convey a relaxed atmosphere.
Shaxi is the best-preserved city on the Southern Silk Route. The main things to see are:
- The 700-year-old Theater (寺登戏台), located in the main square
- The Yujin Bridge (玉津桥), not far from the square
- The Xingjiao Temple (兴教寺), also in the square
- The Friday Market (星期五市集). Perhaps not as traditional as the one in Yuanyang, but it is still interesting if it’s your first time in China.
Don’t miss the Hungry Buddha vegan restaurant run by an Italian chef. You’ll find directions all over the city. It has only 8 seats, and Shaxi is perhaps where you least expect to find a similar restaurant. Personally, I am not a lover of vegan cuisine, but the pizza was really good. The cheese is made with cashew cream; even if the prices are quite high, it is worth trying.
From Shaxi, it is also possible to make a day trip to Shibaoshan (石宝山), where you can see several temples, caves, and even some monkeys. To get there, head to the parking lot inside the old town and ask one of the minivan drivers to take you to 石宝山.
As for the accommodation, you can’t find any option on Booking.com so you must use Trip.com. The other option is to look for a place once you arrive there.
Finally, remember that before visiting China, you must get a VPN to continue using the internet.
In this link, you will find an article about Shigu, another beautiful town along the ancient southern Silk Road near Lijiang. Here are some tips for your trip to China.
