Shaxi Old Town: a Gem Along the Ancient Tea Horse Road

Halfway between Lijiang and Dali, Shaxi(沙溪) is a small village almost forgotten by tourists. In this travel guide, you can find things to do and see in this peaceful old town.

Two of the most famous places along the ancient Tea Horse Road are Lijiang and Dali. But between these two quite touristy places, there’s a third, lesser-known area that is definitely worth including in your Yunnan itinerary (here is my guide).

This place is called Shaxi (沙溪) and, unlike Lijiang and Dali, it still retains some of its original charm: it’s a peaceful retreat, perfect for slowing down, avoiding the crowds, and experiencing the authentic rhythm of rural Yunnan life.

Besides being less famous, another good reason to visit Shaxi is that if you plan a trip to Dali or Lijiang, you can easily add it to your itinerary, since it’s located halfway between the two cities.

How to get to Shaxi (沙溪)

One reason Shaxi receives relatively few tourists is that it is less convenient to reach than Lijiang or Dali. It is located roughly halfway between the two cities, but it is not served by trains. The usual way to get there is to take a bus and change in Jianchuan (剑川). Recently, a direct bus connection from Lijiang has also been introduced, operating once a day.

If there are no buses available to Jianchuan, don’t worry. At the bus station, you’ll find plenty of minivan drivers who can take you there for just a few RMB. Shaxi is about 45 minutes from Jianchuan. Alternatively, you can negotiate with a taxi driver in Dali or Lijiang, but it will cost considerably more.

Most people living in Shaxi belong to the Bai, Hui, and Yi ethnic groups.

When is the best time to visit Shaxi, and for how long should you stay

This part of Yunnan is known for its mild climate year-round. Keep in mind that in winter it can get relatively cold, and most houses and hotels (especially the cheaper ones) do not have heating.

In May, the rainy season begins and usually lasts until September. The best months to visit Shaxi are therefore during Autumn and Spring.

Since it is a very small town, a couple of hours will be enough to visit it. If you have more time and decide to stay overnight, you will find even fewer tourists in the evening, as most people leave for Lijiang or Dali.

Friday is market day, and many people from the nearby villages flock to the market to sell spices, cheese, local vegetables, and other items. Many women wear their traditional, beautifully coloured attire, something that even in Yunnan is becoming quite a rare scene, unfortunately.

Things to do in Shaxi

Shaxi is a town of farmers, but starting in 2000, the local government launched a program to restore its most important buildings. Although some modern concrete structures have emerged, most new houses are still built in the traditional Bai minority style, with wooden frames and mud bricks.

This makes Shaxi one of the best-preserved towns along the Southern Silk Road. The many trees lining its main streets enhance the town’s peaceful atmosphere and invite tourists to walk slowly.

The main things to see are:

• The 700-year-old Theater (寺登戏台): located in the main square, it was built in the Ming–Qing style. It faces the temple and anchors village life during festivals and performances.
• The Yujin Bridge (玉津桥): not far from the square, it’s a graceful stone arch over the Heihui River, and it’s especially photogenic at sunrise and sunset.
• The Xingjiao Temple (兴教寺): also in the square, it’s a quiet complex with ancient cypresses and worn courtyards, which pairs beautifully with the old theater across the way.
• The Friday Market (星期五市集): farmers arrive at dawn with baskets and simple scales to sell produce, spices, and local goods, continuing a tradition that has been going on for centuries.

Shibaoshan (石宝山)

From Shaxi, it is also possible to do a day trip to Shibaoshan (石宝山). This sacred mountain is renowned for its ancient Buddhist grottoes, forests, and red sandstone formations. A UNESCO World Heritage tentative site, it features over 130 rock carvings dating back to the 9th-century Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms, showcasing intricate statues of Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, and local deities.

This is one of those places where I recommend hiring a local tour guide, because the area’s history is truly fascinating. You’ll miss a lot of interesting information if you don’t have a guide. The park is huge, and you can spend a whole day visiting it. Send me a DM on Instagram if you need one.

To get to Shibaoshan, head to the parking lot inside the old town of Shaxi and ask one of the minivan drivers to take you to 石宝山, or you can catch one of the new tourist buses that take you straight to the mountain (unfortunately, it’s not possible to book them in advance at the moment).

Final Thoughts

Since I first visited Shaxi many years ago, things have changed a bit, and now even this place is slowly becoming more touristy. This is, unfortunately, a trend in all of China. This being said, I still recommend visiting this ancient town if you have time, especially if you combine it with Shibaoshan (I can’t stress enough how beautiful it is).

This area will give you some insight into how powerful the ancient Nanzhao kingdom once was, so powerful that it defeated the Chinese in battle, and it was one of the wealthiest areas in all of Asia, thanks to its strategic location along the Tea-Horse road.

As always, if you are planning to book a hotel, I recommend using Trip.com rather than Booking.com.

Finally, remember that before visiting China, you must get a VPN to continue using the internet. If you need an eSIM, this works well. As for travel insurance, I recommend using this one.

In this link, you will find an article about Shigu, another beautiful town along the ancient southern Silk Road near Lijiang. Here are some tips for your trip to China. If you are looking for a little-known but absolutely fascinating area in southern Yunnan, take a look at this article.