In this article, I’ll take you to one of the least-known parts of Yunnan (China), where you might have a chance to spot some rare wild Asian Elephants and discover the local ethnic groups.
I’ve been to Xishuangbanna quite a few times and visited some remote ethnic villages (here is my travel guide). Still, there’s one thing that I have always wanted to do: see the wild elephants that roam free between Xishuangbanna and Pu’er.
Not many people associate China with wildlife, but it actually harbors over 7,300 vertebrate species (about 11% of the world’s total). Yunnan, in particular (here my guide), is truly unique. It has more than 50% of China’s high plant species and 55% of China’s vertebrate species. This is quite impressive if you consider that it only accounts for 4% of China’s size. Over 70% of protected wild animals in the country are also found in Yunnan. I talked, for example, about the rare Snub-Nosed Monkey in a previous article.
After spending a few days in a village about one hour from Laos, I finally did it: I photographed a couple of young wild Asian elephants, and it was quite a special moment.
Conservation Efforts for Wild Elephants
Wild elephant conservation in southern Yunnan dates back to the 1950s when the first nature reserves were established. Early efforts focused on anti-poaching patrols and habitat preservation. By the 1990s, studies highlighted severe population declines due to habitat loss from rubber and tea plantations. In response, China classified the Asian elephant as a Class I Protected Animal, mandating stricter legal protections. The 2000s saw expanded reserves to connect fragmented habitats.
Despite these measures, the elephants face severe threats. Habitat fragmentation and agricultural expansion have isolated their populations, reducing genetic diversity. Rubber plantations now cover over 70% of historic elephant ranges in Xishuangbanna, forcing elephants into human settlements. I’ve seen the size of those plantations: they are literally everywhere and have completely changed the landscape. Not only that, but they look very “sad” compared to the native vegetation. It’s difficult to describe, but it feels unnatural.
Human-elephant conflict is also a big issue: elephants raid crops, damaging livelihoods, while retaliatory killings and accidental deaths (e.g., from trains or pits) account for 40% of mortalities.
There is some good news, though. Since 2015, GPS collars and camera traps have tracked elephant movements, enabling real-time alerts to villagers (亚洲象预警). In 2021, the protected habitat has tripled thanks to establishing China’s first Asian Elephant National Park. Community-based programs, such as crop insurance and beehive fences, have reduced incidents by 30% in some areas. NGOs like the Nature Conservancy collaborate with local governments to train rangers and promote sustainable livelihoods, such as eco-tourism. The latest national census estimates 300–350 elephants in Yunnan, a slight increase from the past, signaling conservation progress.
Southern Yunnan’s elephant conservation journey reflects a transition from reactive protection to proactive. There are still many challenges, but at least the future looks slightly better now.
Where to see the Elephants
There are two main places in Yunnan where you can see wild elephants: Xishuangbanna and Pu’er.
I took the picture above in one of the protected areas in Mengla, not far from Xishuangbanna, where there are still dense forests and no rubber plantations. Most of the elephants live in similar areas, which means it is impossible to see them, especially if they have cubs: they are very protective of them. Currently, there are around 40-50 elephants in the county.
From time to time, though, they might venture outside the forest looking for food, especially when corn matures. Elephants love corn, and they raid corn fields quite often. Sometimes, a few elephants get separated from their families, like the two young ones I saw, and they stay near local villages where it’s easier to find food. That’s also when it’s easier to photograph them.
A good option to increase the chances of seeing a Wild Elephant is to join a specialized tour (which is what I did). I joined the one arranged by China Serendipity. They focus on high-end tours all around China, and it was a pleasure to travel with them and see some really cool places. Don’t forget to mention that you got their contact information through my blog to enjoy a small discount.
As you can imagine, there’s no way of knowing in advance if you’ll see wild elephants; honestly, I got quite lucky. If the two elephants I photographed weren’t separated from the rest of the herd, I wouldn’t have been able to see them.
When is the best time to see the Elephants in China
It’s easier to spot the elephants during the dry season (winter) because the vegetation is less dense. Another benefit is that the weather is more comfortable with lower humidity and clearer skies.
Within this timeframe, early morning or late afternoon is the best time, as these are the periods when elephants are most active, searching for food and water. Elephants tend to rest during the hotter midday hours, so planning visits around dawn or dusk increases your chances of encountering them in their natural habitat.
Another good time is when the corn matures since elephants love it and might venture outside the jungle looking for easy food.
Where to stay
This is the hotel I recommend. The hotel manager is an amazing woman who helped coordinate the tour with the rangers since finding the elephants alone is impossible and dangerous. There are about 30 rangers in the county, and they are doing an incredible job protecting these majestic animals.
This hotel is built on the bank of a small river and is surrounded by small Dai and Yao (the local ethnic group) villages and dragon fruit fields. If you are extremely lucky, sometimes some elephants bathe in the river in front of the hotel, but I think this is very, very rare.
If you are in Pu’er and want to have a chance to see some elephants there, then this is the place where you want to stay.
The manor is surrounded by huge coffee plantations, and a huge fence protects it from frequent elephant raids. From what I understand, Pu’er is best in Summer, and Xishuangbanna is best between February and March.
What else to do in Mengla
As I mentioned, and I can’t stress this enough, seeing the elephants is not guaranteed. That said, the area is quite interesting from a cultural viewpoint. There are many villages to explore; the best part is that none are touristy.
I recommend heading to Hebian Village (河边村), about one hour from the hotel. A Chinese professor, Li Xiaoyun, conducted a poverty alleviation program in this village.
Key aspects of the project included sustainable agriculture, education, and training of villagers (with new skills, focusing on areas like technology use, business management, and environmental conservation), and community empowerment, ensuring that villagers had a voice in decision-making processes affecting their community. You can read the full story here.
Today, the village has been completely renovated and is a really nice place to spend a few hours exploring a Yao community. In addition, sometimes the elephants stay in the nearby forests, so you might increase your chances of seeing them.
The area near the hotel I recommended is also interesting from a photography perspective, thanks to the massive dragon fruit fields and the Dai villages.
When I traveled there, I fell into a bit of a rabbit hole and saw how they are actually grown. Above every plant, there’s a lightbulb that is turned on at night. This allows the dragon fruit to grow three times faster. These plants are a cornerstone of Mengla agriculture and can give you an opportunity to photograph something you don’t get the chance to see every day.
Final thoughts
After traveling extensively around China, it can sometimes be challenging to be excited again. Many places, especially the most famous ones, have become big amusement parks. Xishuangbanna is actually one of them. But Mengla is an exception.
This county is not popular; it feels authentic and truly a frontier area. The architecture and vegetation are the same as those in Southeast Asia, and it doesn’t feel like you’re in China anymore. Furthermore, this area is unique because you might see one of the few wild elephants left in China.
Would I recommend coming to this part of Yunnan? Well, it depends. If it’s your first trip to China, you might want to see more iconic places such as Yangshuo, Beijing, or Zhangjiajie. This being said, more and more people are interested in exploring some off-the-beaten-path areas in China. Actually, one of the most common complaints I get from people who travel to Yunnan is that the villages are too commercial (for example, Dali or Lijiang). This is not a problem in Mengla since barely anyone travels there.
If you are traveling to China from Laos (here is my cross-border guide), you might want to consider adding this place to your trip. It will be worth it. You’ll have the chance to see a part of China that is quickly disappearing.
As always, remember to get a VPN before traveling to China. I use this one. If you prefer an eSim, this works pretty well. As for insurance, I recommend using this one.
If you want to explore another remote and beautiful place in Yunnan, I recommend Dulongjiang. This is my guide. Here are more pictures I took in Xishuangbanna.
